How to Commission Custom Jewellery in India: Step-by-Step Guide

You have a vision — an engagement ring with a specific stone, a necklace design inspired by something you saw, a bangle that combines your grandmother's heirloom motif with a modern silhouette. Ready-to-wear jewellery can't deliver it. Custom jewellery can — but the process is unfamiliar to most buyers. This guide walks you through commissioning a piece from scratch, from first conversation to final delivery.

Step 1: Define Your Vision Clearly

Before approaching any jeweller, do your homework:

• Collect reference images: Pinterest, Instagram, jewellery brand websites — save 10–15 images that capture elements you love. Don't just pick one image — identify specific elements: "I like the stone setting from this one, the band profile from that one."
• Define the metal: 22K yellow gold (traditional), 18K yellow/white/rose gold (contemporary), platinum, sterling silver?
• Define the stones: Diamond (certified grade), ruby, emerald, sapphire, uncut Polki? Do you want to bring your own stone or have the jeweller source it?
• Define the size: Ring size (use a sizing gauge), bangle inner diameter, necklace length.
• Define the occasion: Wedding, engagement, daily wear, statement piece — this affects the design decisions (durability vs aesthetics trade-offs).
• Define the budget: Know your maximum before the first meeting. Gold by weight + making charges + stones — have a rough range.

Step 2: Find the Right Jeweller for Custom Work

Not every jeweller does custom work. The skills and infrastructure required are different from running a retail showroom:

Types of Custom Jewellery Makers

• Traditional karigars (artisanal craftsmen): In cities like Mumbai (Zaveri Bazaar), Jaipur, and Surat, individual master craftsmen accept custom commissions. They work from hand-drawn sketches, not CAD. Best for traditional Indian designs; more affordable; less precise finish than modern methods.
• Boutique design studios: Designer-led studios (common in Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru) offer CAD-based design, wax casting, and polished modern finishes. Typically premium-priced; best for contemporary and fusion designs.
• Established retail jewellers with custom divisions: Large jewellers like Tanishq, Kalyan, Malabar, and regional brands often have a "custom design" or "made-to-order" section. Good reliability and quality; less distinctive in design language.

How to Evaluate a Custom Jeweller

• Ask to see a portfolio of past custom work — not just their catalogue pieces
• Ask if they use CAD/CAM (Computer-Aided Design) — modern custom jewellery benefits enormously from 3D rendering before production
• Ask about the production process: do they make in-house or outsource to a karigar unit? Both are acceptable, but you should know.
• Check reviews specifically for custom commissions — different skill from retail
• Verify BIS hallmarking: custom pieces must also be hallmarked; confirm the jeweller will provide BIS certification

Use JewellersInCity's directory to find jewellers in your city who offer custom and bespoke services.

Step 3: The Initial Consultation

The first meeting sets the entire relationship. Bring:

• Your reference image collection (on phone or printed)
• Any existing pieces you want to match or complement
• Stones you want to bring (if any)
• Your budget range

What the Jeweller Should Assess

• Feasibility of your design (some designs aren't structurally possible in gold without expensive techniques)
• Metal and stone recommendations based on your use case
• Initial estimate of gold weight needed (a key cost driver)
• Timeline to complete

Red Flags at Consultation

• Jeweller doesn't ask clarifying questions — a good designer asks more questions than you do
• Immediately says "yes we can make anything" without discussing specifics
• Can't show you any past custom work
• Refuses to provide a written estimate

Step 4: Design Agreement and CAD Review

The Design Sketch Phase

The jeweller's designer will produce either hand sketches or basic CAD drawings based on your brief. Review carefully:

• Does the overall silhouette match your vision?
• Are proportions correct? (stones may look differently sized in sketches vs reality)
• Request revisions — typically 2–3 rounds are included; beyond that, some studios charge a design fee

3D CAD Rendering (Strongly Recommended)

If your jeweller offers 3D rendering (most modern studios do), insist on seeing it before approving. A 3D CAD render shows:

• Exact proportions from multiple angles
• Stone placement and relative sizes
• How the piece will look when worn (some software adds realistic skin/fabric background)

A 3D render costs ₹500–₹2,000 extra but prevents expensive surprises when the physical piece is made. Worth every rupee.

The Design Agreement

Get a written agreement before production starts, including:

• Approved design (sketch or CAD image attached)
• Metal specification: karat, weight (approximate), colour
• Stone specification: type, carat/size, grade (for diamonds: cut, color, clarity, carat)
• Total price estimate (breakdown: gold, stones, making charges, GST)
• Advance payment amount and schedule
• Delivery timeline
• What happens if you're not satisfied with the finished piece

Step 5: Understanding the Pricing Structure

Components of Custom Jewellery Price

What Gold Weight to Expect for Common Pieces

• Simple gold ring: 3–6 grams
• Solitaire engagement ring (18K): 4–8 grams
• Gold necklace (simple chain): 10–15 grams
• Pendant necklace: 8–20 grams total
• Jhumka earrings (pair): 6–15 grams
• Bangle (plain): 12–25 grams

Advance Payment Structure

Custom jewellers typically require:

• 30–50% advance at order confirmation
• Remaining on delivery
• Some jewellers accept the gold price component as advance (to lock in the gold rate) + making charges on delivery

Step 6: Production and Check-Ins

For pieces taking more than 2 weeks, ask for a mid-production update — especially for complex work. Many jewellers now share WhatsApp photos of the piece at the wax casting stage (before the final gold pour) — this is the last chance to catch proportion issues before they're fixed in metal.

Step 7: Delivery and Quality Check

When you collect the piece:

• Weigh it — the actual weight should be close to the quoted weight (±5%)
• Check the hallmark — BIS HUID stamp should be present on the piece
• Inspect under magnification — check stone settings (no loose prongs), finish, polish
• Try it on if possible — ensure comfort and fit (ring size, bangle diameter)
• Get the invoice with full specification: gold weight, purity, stone details, making charges, GST

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does custom jewellery take in India?

Simple pieces (rings, pendants): 1–2 weeks. Complex pieces (necklaces, multi-piece sets): 3–6 weeks. Bridal sets with multiple pieces: 6–12 weeks. Always add 2 weeks buffer. Never order custom bridal jewellery less than 3 months before the wedding.

Can I bring my own gold to get custom jewellery made?

Yes, most jewellers accept exchange gold — you bring old gold, they refine it and use it for the new piece. You'll receive credit for the melt value of your old gold (weight × purity × current gold rate minus refining charge of ₹200–500/gram). This is a cost-effective way to repurpose old or unfashionable pieces.

Is custom jewellery more expensive than buying ready-made?

Custom jewellery carries higher making charges (10–30%) vs mass-produced pieces (6–12%). However, you get exactly what you want, and for unusual designs or non-standard sizes, custom may be the only option. The gold and stone costs are the same in both cases.

What if I'm not happy with the finished piece?

This should be addressed in the design agreement before production. Reputable jewellers will offer one free round of modifications for design discrepancies from the approved CAD. For significant rework, there may be additional charges. If the piece is fundamentally different from the approved design, you have grounds to refuse delivery. This is why the written design agreement is crucial.

Can I commission jewellery from a jeweller in another city remotely?

Yes, increasingly common. Good boutique studios in Jaipur (Rajasthani designs), Mumbai (Zaveri Bazaar craftsmen), and Bengaluru (modern designers) work with clients nationally via WhatsApp/email. The CAD stage is shared digitally. However, for complex pieces or high-value commissions, an in-person visit for the final consultation is worth the effort.