Jewellery Glossary: 50+ Terms Every Indian Buyer Should Know

Walking into a jewellery store is a different experience when you know the language.

Terms like "pavé", "bezel set", "polki", "fluorescence", and "millesimal fineness" separate a confident buyer from someone who has to take the jeweller's word for everything.

This glossary covers 50+ essential jewellery terms used in Indian retail — from metalworking techniques to gemstone grading to certification jargon.

Gold and Metal Terms

Term	What It Means
Karat (K)	Measure of gold purity. 24K = 99.9% pure gold. 22K = 91.6%. 18K = 75%. Not to be confused with "Carat" (gemstone weight).
Millesimal Fineness	Parts-per-thousand purity expression. 916 = 22K, 750 = 18K, 585 = 14K. This is what's stamped as the BIS hallmark number.
Alloy	A mixture of two or more metals. Gold jewellery is always an alloy — pure 24K gold is too soft for most jewellery use.
Assay	The testing and certification of metal purity. An Assaying and Hallmarking Centre (AHC) performs assays for BIS hallmarking.
Hallmark / HUID	The BIS certification stamp on gold jewellery. HUID (Hallmark Unique Identification Number) is the 6-character alphanumeric code unique to each hallmarked piece.
Making Charges	The cost of craftsmanship charged per gram or as a percentage. This covers the jeweller's labour, overhead, and profit. Not recoverable on resale.
Wastage Charge	A charge for gold "wasted" during the manufacturing process. Often applied as a percentage on top of making charges. Should be itemised separately on your bill.
Rhodium Plating	A bright white precious metal coating applied over white gold to give it a mirror finish. Wears off over 1–3 years with daily wear. Re-plating costs ₹500–₹1,500.
Rose Gold	Gold alloyed with copper, giving a warm pink hue. Common purities: 18K (750) and 14K (585). The more copper in the alloy, the deeper the pink.
Vermeil	Sterling silver (925) base coated with a thick layer of gold (minimum 2.5 microns). Not solid gold — significantly cheaper but not as durable.
Gold Filled	A thick layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base metal (usually brass). More durable than gold-plated, but not solid gold. Not permitted to be called "gold" in most regulated markets.
Gold Plated	A very thin gold coating (typically 0.5 microns or less) over base metal. Wears off quickly with regular use. Fine for costume jewellery, not appropriate for fine jewellery.
Platinum 950	Platinum alloy that is 95% pure platinum. The standard for platinum jewellery in India. Denser and more durable than white gold; no plating required.
Sterling Silver (925)	92.5% silver alloy. The international standard for silver jewellery. Harder than fine silver, making it workable for complex designs.

Gemstone Terms

Term	What It Means
Carat (ct)	Unit of weight for gemstones. 1 carat = 0.2 grams. Not to be confused with Karat (gold purity). A 1ct round diamond is approximately 6.5mm in diameter.
4Cs	The GIA's diamond grading system: Cut, Colour, Clarity, and Carat weight. The universally accepted framework for evaluating diamond quality.
Cut Grade	How well a diamond's facets interact with light. GIA grades round diamonds: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor. Cut is the most important C for brilliance.
Colour Grade (D–Z)	GIA's scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow). G–H is the practical sweet spot for most buyers — faces up white in a ring but costs significantly less than D–F.
Clarity Grade	Presence of internal (inclusions) and external (blemishes) characteristics. Scale: FL, IF, VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2, I3. VS2 and eye-clean SI1 offer best value.
Inclusion	An internal characteristic of a gemstone — a crystal, feather, cloud, or other natural formation within the stone. Most inclusions are microscopic and invisible to the naked eye.
Eye-Clean	An informal term for a stone with no inclusions visible to the unaided eye at arm's length in normal lighting. An eye-clean SI1 diamond offers clarity value without paying VVS premiums.
Fluorescence	A diamond's tendency to glow blue (usually) under ultraviolet light. Graded None, Faint, Medium, Strong, Very Strong. Strong fluorescence can make some diamonds appear hazy in sunlight — inspect carefully before buying.
Brilliance	The white light reflected from a diamond's interior and surface. A function of cut quality. "Brilliant cut" refers to any facet arrangement optimised for light return.
Fire	The dispersion of light into spectral colours (the rainbow flashes). Different from brilliance. Moissanite has more fire than diamond — which some find attractive, others find excessive.
Scintillation	The sparkle effect — the pattern of light and dark areas seen as the stone moves. A well-cut diamond shows even scintillation across its face.
Polki	Uncut, unpolished natural diamonds set in gold using the Kundan technique. The raw, irregular facets produce a distinctive diffused sparkle rather than brilliant white light. Traditional Mughal-era Indian jewellery.
Navratna	A setting of nine gemstones — ruby, diamond, emerald, yellow sapphire, pearl, red coral, blue sapphire, cat's eye, and hessonite (or similar). Associated with astrological significance in Indian tradition.
Certified Diamond	A diamond accompanied by a grading report from an independent laboratory (GIA, IGI, HRD). The certificate details the 4Cs and other characteristics. Never buy a significant diamond without one.
Lab-Grown Diamond	A real diamond grown in a laboratory using CVD or HPHT methods. Chemically identical to mined diamonds. Costs 75–85% less but has very low resale value.
Simulant	A stone that looks like a diamond but is not one — e.g., cubic zirconia (CZ) or moissanite. Simulants are a different material from diamonds and have different physical properties.
Moissanite	Silicon carbide (SiC) gemstone. Near-diamond hardness (9.25 Mohs vs 10 for diamond). Has more "fire" (spectral colour) than diamond. A legitimate and durable diamond alternative.
Precious Stones	Traditional classification for diamond, ruby, sapphire, and emerald. "Semi-precious" refers to all other gemstones — tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, etc. The precious/semi-precious distinction has no formal modern gemological basis.

Setting and Craftsmanship Terms

Term	What It Means
Prong Setting	Metal claws (prongs) hold a gemstone. 4-prong and 6-prong are standard. Allows maximum light entry — ideal for solitaires. Prongs can catch on fabric and should be checked annually.
Bezel Setting	A band of metal wraps completely around the stone's perimeter. Maximum stone protection. Slightly reduces light entry. Excellent for active lifestyles or contemporary aesthetic.
Pavé Setting	Many small stones set closely together, held by tiny beads of metal. Creates a "paved with diamonds" surface. Adds sparkle to bands without increasing centre stone cost.
Channel Setting	Stones set between two parallel rails of metal, flush with the surface. Very secure — no prongs to catch. Common for wedding bands and eternity rings.
Flush / Burnish Setting	Stone set flush into the metal surface, completely level. Very modern, clean aesthetic. Extremely secure for active wear.
Kundan Setting	Ancient Indian technique: pure gold foil (24K) is pressed and burnished around each stone, holding it without prongs or adhesive. Defines traditional Rajasthani and Mughal jewellery.
Jadau Setting	A variant of Kundan where the gold is also worked into intricate patterns around stones. Associated with Rajasthan, Gujarat, and Hyderabad.
Meenakari	Coloured enamel work fused to gold at high temperature. Applied to the reverse of Kundan pieces or independently. Characteristic of Rajasthani jewellery. Cannot be cleaned with heat or ultrasound.
Filigree	Delicate open metalwork made from very fine twisted wire. Odisha's silver filigree (Cuttack) and Karimnagar's gold filigree are GI-tagged regional crafts.
Repoussé	A metalworking technique where sheet metal is shaped into relief patterns by hammering from the reverse side. Creates three-dimensional designs in gold and silver.
Casting	Molten metal poured into a mould to create a specific shape. Most modern machine-made jewellery is cast. More uniform and faster than hand-fabrication, but less artisan character.
Hand-Fabricated	Jewellery made by working metal sheet and wire by hand, without casting. Labour-intensive, higher making charges, but produces unique character and fine detail not achievable by casting.
Hallmarked vs Certified	Hallmarking (BIS) certifies the metal's purity. Certification (GIA/IGI) certifies gemstone quality. A piece with a BIS hallmark but no diamond certificate has only half the documentation it needs.

Jewellery Styles and Forms: Indian Terms

Term	Description	Regional Association
Maang Tikka	Ornament hanging from the centre hair parting onto the forehead	Pan-India
Jhumka	Bell-shaped earring with small dangling bells or drops	Pan-India
Chandbali	Moon-crescent shaped earrings, typically heavily worked	North and East India
Nath	Nose ring; ranges from small studs to elaborate rings worn with chains connecting to the hair	Varies by region
Mangalsutra	Black bead and gold thread necklace worn as a symbol of marriage	Pan-India; design varies
Haaram	Long necklace, often worn layered with a shorter piece	South India especially
Bajuband / Vanki	Armlet worn on the upper arm	North (Bajuband), South (Vanki)
Kamarband / Oddiyanam	Waist ornament / waist belt in gold	North / South India
Payal	Anklet; traditionally silver (associated with marriage and auspiciousness)	Pan-India
Bichiya	Toe ring; traditionally silver; worn by married women	North and Central India
Passa / Jhoomar	Side head ornament; hangs over one side of the forehead from the hair	Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Punjab
Kada	A broad, rigid bangle	Pan-India (especially Punjabi tradition)
Thewa	Jewellery made by fusing 23K gold sheets onto coloured glass; Pratapgarh, Rajasthan specialty	Rajasthan
Temple Jewellery	Gold jewellery depicting deities and mythological scenes; originally made for temple deities, adopted for South Indian bridal tradition	Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra

International Fine Jewellery Terms You May Encounter

Term	What It Means
High Jewellery (Haute Joaillerie)	One-of-a-kind, masterwork pieces made from the finest gems by top maisons (Cartier, Van Cleef, Bulgari). The "haute couture" of jewellery.
Parure	A matching set of jewellery — necklace, earrings, bracelet, and brooch in one coordinated design.
Solitaire	A ring with a single centre stone, held by prongs. The most classic engagement ring form.
Eternity Ring	A band set with gemstones (typically diamonds) around its entire circumference. Symbolises enduring love; a common anniversary gift.
Tennis Bracelet	A flexible bracelet set with a continuous line of matching diamonds. Named after tennis player Chris Evert who lost hers during a match.
Trilogy Ring	Three-stone ring symbolising past, present, and future. Also called a "three-stone ring".
Halo Setting	A ring of smaller gemstones surrounding a centre stone, making it appear larger and adding overall sparkle.
Girdle	The narrow band around a gemstone's widest perimeter — separating the crown (top) from the pavilion (bottom). GIA certificates laser-inscribe certification numbers on the girdle.
Table	The large flat facet on the top of a gemstone. The table percentage (table width / total diameter) affects a diamond's light performance.
Depth	The height of a gemstone from table to culet (bottom point). Depth percentage affects how light exits through the bottom versus reflecting back up.

Understanding these terms transforms you from a passive buyer into an informed participant in the conversation.

When your jeweller mentions "VS2 clarity with Very Good cut," you know what they mean — and you know whether it represents good value.

When you see "Kundan jadau with meenakari reverse," you understand you're looking at a traditional piece with specific care requirements.

Knowledge is the best protection against overpaying, and the best foundation for buying jewellery you'll treasure for a lifetime.

Browse our guides section for deeper dives into specific topics, or use JewellersinCity to find verified jewellers in your city who can show you these techniques and styles in person.