Complete Jewellery Glossary: 100+ Terms Every Buyer Should Know

Walking into a jewellery store armed with the right vocabulary changes the entire experience — from feeling like an outsider to engaging as an informed buyer. This comprehensive glossary covers the most important jewellery terms used in India, from the technical (millesimal fineness, bezel setting) to the traditional (meenakari, kundan) to the evaluative (4Cs, cut grade, HUID).

A

Acid Test: A method to verify gold purity by applying nitric acid to the metal. Real gold resists acid; base metals react with colour change. Different acid concentrations test different karat levels.
AD / American Diamond: The Indian market name for cubic zirconia (CZ) — a synthetic crystalline material that visually resembles diamonds but is significantly less expensive.
Alloy: A mixture of two or more metals. Pure gold (24K) is too soft for jewellery, so it is alloyed with silver, copper, zinc, or palladium to create 22K, 18K, and 14K gold.
Anklet (Payal / Pajeb): Ankle ornament worn by Indian women. Traditionally in silver; gold anklets are worn on occasion. Features chain links and/or ghungroo (small bells).
Antique Setting: A style of stone setting inspired by Victorian, Edwardian, or Mughal-era jewellery. Features milgrain edges, engraving, and vintage motifs rather than modern settings.
Attigai: A traditional South Indian multi-strand gold necklace, particularly worn in Tamil Nadu. Features elaborate gold work and typically includes multiple rows of gold beads or elements.

B

Baguette: A rectangular, step-cut diamond or gemstone. Commonly used as side stones flanking a central stone in rings.
Bali: A type of Indian earring — typically a circular hoop with a hinge mechanism. The term is used in different ways in different regions; in North India, "bali" often refers to a simple nose ring.
Bangle: A rigid, circular bracelet worn on the wrist. In Indian tradition, gold bangles (especially in 22K) are significant jewellery pieces given at weddings and festivals.
Bezel Setting: A stone setting where the gemstone is encircled by a metal rim (bezel) that holds it securely. More protective than prong settings; no prongs to catch on fabric.
BIS (Bureau of Indian Standards): The national standards body of India that certifies and regulates gold hallmarking. All hallmarked gold jewellery in India must carry BIS certification.
Birthstone: A gemstone associated with a specific month of birth. January: Garnet; February: Amethyst; March: Aquamarine; April: Diamond; May: Emerald; June: Pearl/Alexandrite; July: Ruby; August: Peridot; September: Sapphire; October: Opal/Tourmaline; November: Topaz/Citrine; December: Tanzanite/Blue Topaz.
Brilliant Cut: The most common diamond cut — a circular shape with 57 or 58 facets arranged to maximise brilliance (light return). Also called "round brilliant."
Briolette: A teardrop-shaped gemstone with facets covering the entire surface. Used in hanging earrings and pendants.
Burnish Setting: A setting where the stone is held in place by the surrounding metal being burnished (pressed) over the stone's edge. Creates a flush, smooth surface.

C

Cabochon: A gemstone with a smooth, domed top and flat bottom — not faceted. Used for opaque stones (turquoise, onyx, lapis lazuli) and some translucent stones (star sapphires, moonstones).
Carat (ct): The unit of weight for gemstones. 1 carat = 0.2 grams. Not to be confused with karat (gold purity).
Casting: A manufacturing process where molten metal is poured into a mould (typically made from a wax model) to create a jewellery piece. The most common manufacturing method for modern jewellery.
Channel Setting: A setting where stones are placed in a channel (groove) cut into the metal band, held by the channel walls. Common in wedding bands with multiple small stones.
Charan Paduka: Traditional Indian silver foot ornaments shaped like sandals, used in worship or gifted as auspicious items.
Choker: A necklace that sits close to the throat (13–15 inches). In Indian jewellery, chokers include the Attigai, Hasli, and various temple jewellery collar styles.
Clarity (Diamond): A grading of the number and nature of inclusions (internal flaws) in a diamond. GIA scale: FL (Flawless) → IF → VVS1/VVS2 → VS1/VS2 → SI1/SI2 → I1/I2/I3. SI1 and above typically appear clean to the naked eye.
Colour (Diamond): A grading of how colourless (white) a diamond is. GIA scale: D (colourless) to Z (light yellow). D–F: colourless; G–J: near-colourless; K+: faint yellow. Colourless diamonds are rarest and most valuable.
Cubic Zirconia (CZ): A synthetic crystalline zirconium oxide that visually resembles diamonds. Significantly less expensive than diamonds. Used extensively in Indian fashion/imitation jewellery (marketed as "American Diamond" / AD).
Cushion Cut: A square or rectangular diamond cut with rounded corners and large facets. One of the oldest cuts; associated with a romantic, vintage aesthetic. Popular for engagement rings.
Cut (Diamond): The quality of a diamond's proportions, symmetry, and polish — the most important of the 4Cs for determining brilliance. GIA grades: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor.

D–F

Diamond Certificate: A grading report from a gemological laboratory (GIA, IGI, HRD) specifying a diamond's 4Cs and other characteristics. Mandatory for any significant diamond purchase.
Dugdugi: Traditional Assamese earrings in a cylindrical shape, often with intricate filigree work. A distinctive ornament of Assamese bridal tradition.
Electroplating: The process of depositing a thin metal layer (gold, silver, rhodium) on a base metal surface using an electrical current. Gold plating = depositing gold on brass/copper base.
Emerald Cut: A rectangular stone cut with step-facets (parallel rows) and cropped corners. Creates a "hall of mirrors" effect rather than sparkle. Popular for emeralds and sophisticated diamond styles.
Eternity Band: A ring with stones set all the way around the band (full eternity) or halfway around (half eternity). Symbolises eternal love; traditionally given as an anniversary gift.
Facet: A flat, polished surface on a gemstone. The arrangement of facets determines how light interacts with the stone (creating brilliance, fire, and scintillation).
Filigree: An intricate metalwork technique using twisted wire (gold or silver) arranged in delicate patterns. Odisha's Tarakasi and some South Indian silver work are famous filigree traditions.
Fluorescence (Diamond): The degree to which a diamond emits visible light (usually blue) when exposed to UV light. Ranges from None to Very Strong. Can make some diamonds appear hazier under certain lighting but also makes faint-yellow diamonds appear more colourless in daylight.
Four Cs: The universal grading system for diamonds: Carat (weight), Cut (proportions), Colour (whiteness), and Clarity (flaws). Developed by GIA; the global standard for diamond evaluation.

G–H

Gamkharu: Traditional Assamese gold bangles with distinctive dome-shaped projections on the outer surface. One of the most recognisable Assamese jewellery forms.
GIA (Gemological Institute of America): The world's leading gemological research and education institute. GIA diamond certificates are the most widely trusted globally. GIA also certifies coloured gemstones.
Gilding: Applying a thin layer of gold to another surface (metal, wood, glass). "Fire gilding" (using mercury amalgam) is a historical technique; modern gilding uses electroplating or gold leaf.
Gold Filled: Jewellery with a thick layer of gold mechanically bonded to a base metal. By US standards, gold-filled items must have at least 1/20th of their total weight as gold (much thicker than gold-plated). Much more durable than gold-plating.
Gold Purity / Fineness: The proportion of pure gold in an alloy. Expressed as karat (24K = 100% pure) or millesimal fineness (999 = 99.9% pure). Common purities: 999 (24K), 916 (22K), 750 (18K), 585 (14K).
Hallmark: An official mark stamped on precious metal items certifying their purity. In India, BIS hallmarking includes the BIS logo, purity mark, assaying centre mark, and HUID.
Hansuli: A rigid, curved necklace (torque) that sits close to the base of the throat. A traditional ornament in Rajasthani, Odia, and some Bengali jewellery traditions.
Haath Phool / Panja: An ornament covering the back of the hand — rings connected by chains to a bracelet. Common in North Indian and Rajasthani bridal jewellery; the literal translation is "hand flower."
HUID (Hallmark Unique Identification Number): A 6-digit alphanumeric code laser-engraved on each BIS-hallmarked gold jewellery piece. Launched in 2021; mandatory for all gold jewellery sold in India from April 2023. Verifiable via the BIS Care app.

I–K

IBJA (India Bullion and Jewellers Association): The body that sets the benchmark gold price in India (IBJA rate). India's gold prices are typically derived from IBJA rates, which in turn are linked to international London gold prices plus customs duty and GST.
IGI (International Gemological Institute): A major gemological institute with strong presence in India (Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai). IGI certificates are widely accepted in India for both diamonds and lab-grown diamonds.
Inclusion: A natural imperfection inside a gemstone — a crystal, feather, cloud, or other characteristic formed during the gem's creation. Diamond inclusions are mapped in clarity grading reports.
Inlay: A decorative technique where a material (enamel, stone, shell) is set into a depression in the base material, flush with the surface. Prominent in traditional Indian jewellery from multiple regions.
Invisible Setting: A stone setting where stones are set with no visible metal between them — they appear to float. Requires extremely precise stone cutting. Creates a continuous surface of stone.
Jhumka: A traditional Indian earring with a bell-shaped dome body (the "Jhumka") from which smaller bells or droplets hang. Found across most Indian jewellery traditions; one of the most universally recognised Indian jewellery forms.
Junbiri: The signature crescent-shaped gold necklace of Assamese jewellery tradition. The name derives from "Jun" (moon in Assamese). Essential piece in every Assamese bride's set.
Karat (K or kt): A unit for measuring gold purity, where 24 karats = 100% pure gold. 22K = 91.67% pure, 18K = 75% pure, 14K = 58.5% pure. Not to be confused with carat (gemstone weight).
Karigar: An Indian master goldsmith or artisan who creates jewellery by hand. The karigar tradition is a multi-generation craft; fine karigars are highly skilled specialists in specific techniques (filigree, Kundan, Polki, casting).
Kasumala: A traditional Kerala gold coin necklace — multiple gold coins (Lakshmi coins or British sovereign replicas) strung on a gold chain. A signature piece in Kerala bridal jewellery.
Keru: Spiral gold bangles worn on the upper arm in Assamese tradition — not on the wrist. A distinctly Assamese ornament form with no direct parallel in most other regional traditions.
Kundan: A traditional Indian jewellery setting technique where gemstones or glass are set in a bed of 24K gold (kundan foil). Gold is hammered into sheets, and stones are set in the foil which is then pressed to hold them. Jaipur is the world's Kundan capital.

L–M

Lab-Grown Diamond (LGD): A diamond with identical chemical, physical, and optical properties to a mined diamond but created in a laboratory (either HPHT or CVD process). Certified by GIA and IGI; 70–90% less expensive than mined diamonds.
Labradorite: A feldspar gemstone with a striking optical phenomenon called "labradorescence" — an iridescent play of blue, green, gold, and orange colours. Used in bohemian and modern jewellery designs.
Lapidary: An artisan who cuts, shapes, and polishes gemstones. Also the art and science of cutting gems. Surat and Jaipur are major lapidary centres in India.
LTCG (Long-Term Capital Gains): Tax on capital gains from assets held more than 2 years (for gold). Post Finance Act 2024, LTCG on gold is taxed at 12.5% without indexation benefit.
Mangalsutra: A sacred thread or necklace worn by married Hindu women as a symbol of marital status. Regional variations: Tamil Nadu (Thali), Maharashtra (black bead and gold pendant), Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh. The design varies significantly by community.
Making Charges: The fee charged by a jeweller for the craftsmanship of creating a piece, in addition to the gold/metal cost. Expressed as a percentage of gold value or per-gram charge. Ranges from 6–30% depending on complexity of design and crafting method.
Maang Tika: A forehead ornament worn on the centre parting of the hair — a chain attached to the hair with a pendant hanging on the forehead. One of the 16 elements of Solah Shringar; a universal Indian bridal ornament.
Meenakari: The art of applying coloured enamel to gold. Jaipur is the premier centre for Meenakari work. Traditional colours: red, green, white, blue. Often used on the reverse side of Kundan jewellery; also as the primary decorative technique.
Milgrain: A decorative border of tiny beads along the edge of a metal surface — used in vintage and antique-style jewellery settings. Creates a beaded texture at the setting's edge.
Millesimal Fineness: A purity marking system using parts per thousand. 999 = 99.9% pure (24K); 916 = 91.6% pure (22K); 750 = 75% pure (18K); 585 = 58.5% pure (14K). This system is used in BIS hallmarking in India.
Mohs Scale: A scale from 1–10 measuring mineral hardness. Diamond: 10 (hardest); Ruby/Sapphire: 9; Emerald: 7.5–8; Amethyst: 7; Opal: 5.5–6; Gold: ~2.5 (very soft). Higher Mohs = more scratch resistant.
Moissanite: A silicon carbide gemstone that visually resembles diamonds (and has higher refractive index = more sparkle). Used as a diamond alternative; significantly less expensive. Created naturally in meteorites; commercially produced in labs.
Mala: A string of beads used as jewellery or for religious purposes. Gold Mala, pearl Mala, and Rudraksha Mala are all common forms.

N–P

Nath: A nose ring — a significant element of Indian bridal jewellery. Sizes range from small nose studs to elaborate rings (sometimes 10–12cm diameter) hung with chains attached to the hair. Regional traditions vary dramatically in Nath styles.
Necklace Types (by length): Collar: 12–13 inches (throat); Choker: 14–16 inches; Princess: 17–19 inches; Matinee: 20–24 inches; Opera: 28–36 inches; Rope: 36+ inches.
Pavé Setting: A setting where small stones are set very close together with minimal metal showing between them, giving the appearance of a "paved" surface of diamonds. The metal holding each stone is tiny beads or prongs.
Patina: The surface change (sheen, discolouration, or texture) that develops on metals over time through oxidation or use. Gold develops a warm, subtle patina with age that many consider beautiful. Silver develops a darker tarnish that requires polishing.
Pearl: An organic gem formed inside bivalve molluscs. Natural pearls (formed without human intervention) are extremely rare and valuable. Cultured pearls (nucleated by humans) are what most jewellery uses. South Sea pearls are the largest; Akoya pearls the most lustrous; freshwater pearls the most affordable.
Platinum: A naturally white precious metal used in fine jewellery. Hallmarked Pt950 (95% pure). Denser and more durable than gold; hypoallergenic; doesn't tarnish. More expensive than gold by weight due to rarity and density.
Polki: Uncut, natural diamonds in their raw crystal form — not cut to standardised shapes. Set flat-side down in 22K or 24K gold. Used in Mughal and Rajput court jewellery traditions; prominent in Marwari and Rajasthani bridal sets.
Prong Setting: The most common solitaire stone setting — metal prongs (typically 4 or 6) hold the stone at its base, lifting it above the band to maximise light exposure and brilliance. Prongs can bend or wear down with heavy daily use.
Princess Cut: A square diamond cut with pointed corners and numerous sparkle-maximising facets. The second most popular diamond cut after round brilliant. Popular for engagement rings in the 1980s–2000s.

R–S

Repoussé: A metalworking technique where a design is hammered from the reverse side to create a raised design on the front. Used in traditional South Indian and Rajasthani gold jewellery for embossed motifs.
Rhodium Plating: The application of rhodium (a platinum-group metal) on white gold or silver to enhance whiteness and scratch resistance. White gold engagement rings typically need re-plating every 1–2 years for daily wear.
Ring Size: Measured as the inner circumference (mm) or diameter of the ring. Common Indian ring sizing uses the Indian standard (diameter in mm): size 10 = 15.7mm diameter; size 16 = 18.2mm; size 20 = 20.2mm. Different from US or UK ring sizes — always specify system when ordering.
Rose Gold: Gold alloyed with copper to give a pinkish-reddish hue. 18K rose gold = 75% gold + ~22.25% copper + ~2.75% silver. Harder than yellow gold due to the copper content; the most durable gold colour. Universally flattering across skin tones.
Sapphire: A corundum gemstone (same mineral family as ruby). Blue is most common, but sapphires occur in all colours except red (which becomes ruby). Hardness: 9 Mohs. Sri Lanka and Kashmir produce the finest blue sapphires; Kashmir sapphires command extreme premiums.
Setting: The metalwork that holds a gemstone in a jewellery piece. Types: prong, bezel, channel, pavé, invisible, burnish, tension, gypsy. The setting choice affects both appearance and durability.
Silver (Sterling): Sterling silver = 92.5% pure silver + 7.5% other metals (usually copper). Hallmarked "925." More affordable than gold; requires polishing to prevent tarnish. Commonly used in traditional Indian silver jewellery (anklets, toe rings, some bangles).
Solitaire: A piece of jewellery (ring, pendant, earrings) featuring a single prominent stone. The "solitaire ring" — one central diamond on a band — is the universal engagement ring format.
Sovereign Gold Bond (SGB): Government of India bonds denominated in grams of gold, issued by the RBI. Pays 2.5% interest annually; capital gains at 8-year maturity are exempt from tax for individuals. Considered the best paper gold investment in India.
Stridhan: Sanskrit for "woman's wealth." Refers to jewellery and gifts received by a woman before/at/after marriage. Legally, Stridhan is the woman's exclusive property under Hindu law — not marital property and not divisible in divorce.

T–Z

Tanzanite: A rare blue-violet gemstone found only near Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania. Trichroic (shows blue, purple, and burgundy depending on viewing angle). Significant demand in Indian premium jewellery; hardness 6.5 Mohs.
Tarakasi: The Odia (Odisha) art of silver filigree — creating jewellery and objects from ultra-fine twisted silver wire. GI-tagged to Cuttack. One of India's most technically demanding jewellery crafts.
Temple Jewellery: South Indian jewellery style originating from ornaments made for temple deities. Features gold (or gold-plated) work with motifs of deities, lotus, Garuda, and peacock. Widely adopted as bridal and classical dance jewellery.
Tension Setting: A stone setting where the gem appears to "float" in mid-air, held only by the tension/pressure of the metal band. Very modern aesthetic; the stone is visible from all sides.
Theva: A traditional craft from Pratapgarh, Rajasthan — miniature paintings of deities, hunting scenes, or courts created in gold on coloured glass. Used in jewellery as decorative panels. GI-tagged; one of India's most unique craft forms.
Topaz: A silicate mineral gemstone available in various colours: colourless (common), blue (most popular), yellow, orange (Imperial Topaz — most prized), pink, and green. Hardness: 8 Mohs.
Turquoise: A blue-green mineral gemstone (copper aluminium phosphate). Opaque; typically set as cabochon. Historically significant in Rajasthani and Afghan jewellery. Imitation turquoise (dyed howlite) is common — ask for certification for high-value pieces.
XRF Machine (X-Ray Fluorescence): A non-destructive testing instrument that uses X-rays to determine the elemental composition of metals. Gold buyers use XRF machines to accurately determine gold purity in seconds — the fastest and most accurate field testing method.
Zirconia (Cubic Zirconia / CZ): A synthetic crystalline material (zirconium dioxide) used as an affordable diamond simulant. Harder than most gemstones (8.5 Mohs) but less hard than diamond (10). Sold in India as "American Diamond" or "AD."

Quick Reference: Purity Marks Cheat Sheet

Mark	Purity	Karat	Metal
999	99.9%	24K	Gold (investment grade)
916	91.6%	22K	Gold (Indian standard for jewellery)
750	75%	18K	Gold (contemporary jewellery)
585	58.5%	14K	Gold (less common in India)
375	37.5%	9K	Gold (very rare in India)
Pt950	95%	N/A	Platinum
925	92.5%	N/A	Sterling Silver
999 Ag	99.9%	N/A	Fine Silver